Product code: BPS009F2014C095W
Product description: HAND-WOVEN HARRIS TWEED BOMBER-COAT

FABRICS
Fabric / upper part: featherweight wool tweed
Composition: 100% wool
Weight: 470 gr/m
Yarn or piece dyed: loose wool dyed (different types of wool are blended together and dyed before being twisted into yarn)
Origin of raw material: Scottish border, UK
Spinner: Harris Tweed Hebrides, Shawbost Isle of Lewis, Scotland -www.harristweedhebrides.com
Weaver: Calum Macleod, Stornoway, Isle of Lewis (hand woven in his own home)
Dyer/Finisher: Harris Tweed Hebrides, Shawbost Isle of Lewis, Scotland -www.harristweedhebrides.com
Supplier: Harris Tweed Hebrides, Shawbost Isle of Lewis, Scotland -www.harristweedhebrides.com

Harris Tweed only uses pure new wool from Scotland (Border Leicester and Cheviot breed). The wool is bought by their own broker at the British Wool Marketing Board who keeps the wool until the company needs it for weaving.

The wool comes from different farms on the Scottish border. They need such a big amount of wool to produce their fabrics that they have probably bought from every farm in that area. Further specification is therefore not possible.
The law decrees that genuine Harris Tweed has been dyed and spun on the islands and hand-woven at the home of the weaver in the Outer Hebrides of Scotland.

Fabric / facing: black plain weave
Composition: 100% organic cotton
Weight: 260 gr/m
Yarn or piece dyed: piece dyed
Certificate: GOTS
Origin of raw material: India
Spinner: N.K, Prato, Italy (supplier did not wish to disclose full name of spinner)
Weaver: Bottazzi, Prato, Italy
Dyer/ Finisher: Supercolor, Prato, Italy
Supplier: Tessile Naturale, Quarrata, Italy - www.tessilenaturale.net

LINING
Composition: 100% cotton
Weight: 70g/m²
Yarn or piece dyed: piece dyed
Certificate: Oekotex
Origin of raw material: Greece
Spinner, Weaver, Dyer/Finisher: the full information overview was made available to Honest by for internal use, however the supplier does not wish to disclose this information nor price of the fabric publicly
Supplier: Devetex, Krefeld, Germany - www.devetex.de

KNIT TRIMMINGS
Composition: 100% recycled wool
Origin of raw material: EU (spinner buys waste material in bulk + reuses own waste material)
Spinner: Filatures du Parc, Brassac, France - www.filatures-du-parc.com/
Knitwear manufacturer: Pentlja P, Grosuplje, Slovenia

BIAS TAPE
Composition: 100% organic cotton
Certificate for raw material and fabric: GOTS
Origin of raw material: Turkey
Manufacturer: Ecological Textiles has produced the bias tape on our request. The cutting of the fabric into bias tape took place in Belgium.
Supplier: Ecological Textiles, Roermond, the Netherlands - www.ecologicaltextiles.nl

BUTTONS
Composition: corozo nut
Origin of raw material: Ecuador
Manufacturer: Union Knoph, Bielefeld, Germany - www.unionknopf.com
Supplier: Union Knoph, Bielefeld, Germany - www.unionknopf.com

SEWING THREAD
Composition :100% organic cotton
Certificate: GOTS 
Origin of raw material: Egypt
Manufacturer: Forbitex, Soest, the Netherlands - www.forbitex.nl
Supplier: Forbitex, Soest, the Netherlands - www.forbitex.nl

FUSIBLE INTERFACING
Composition: 100% Tencel
Certificate: Oekotex
Origin of raw material: manufacturer did not wish to disclose any further information on the origin of the raw material
Manufacturer: Freudenberg, Weinheim, Germany - www.freudenberg-nw.com
Supplier: Freudenberg, Weinheim, Germany - www.freudenberg-nw.com

BRAND LABEL**
Composition: 100% polyester
Certificate: Oekotex
Origin of raw material: Italy
Manufacturer: EE Labels, Heeze, the Netherlands – www.eelabels.com
 
SIZE LABEL**
Composition: 100% polyester
Origin of raw material: China
Production plant location: China
Supplier: Labels and things, Kontich, Belgium – www.labels-things.com

 
 

CARE LABEL + MADE IN LABEL
Composition: 100% cotton
Origin of raw material : manufacturer did not wish to disclose any further information on the origin of the raw material for confidentiality reasons
Manufacturer: Van Campenhoudt, Schaarbeek, Belgium
Supplier: Van Campenhoudt, Schaarbeek, Belgium

SECURITY SEAL
Composition :100% polystyrene
Certificate: ISO 18001, certified manufacturer
Manufactured in: Italy 
Manufacturer: UNISTO, Italy - www.unisto.it
Supplier: UNISTO, Italy - www.unisto.it

HANG TAG
Composition: 100% recycled paper
Origin of raw material: Europe mainly Germany
Manufacturer: Schollershammer , Düren, Germany - www.schoellershammer.de
Supplier: IGEPA Belux, Aalter, Belgium - www.igepa.be
Printer: EcoDrukkerij,Beernem – Belgium – www.ecodrukkerij.be

INFORMATION ABOUT OUR FILTERS:

Our organic filter means that the main fabric or the raw material content of the main fabric of a Honest by garment is certified organic. The filter does not apply to the final product. Neither honest by, nor the production facilities Honest by works with, are certified organic at the moment.

VEGAN
Veganism is the practice of abstaining from the use of animal products.
Our Vegan filter means that these Honest by products do not contain leather, wool, silk, horn, shell or any other substance produced from animals.

SKIN FRIENDLY
Our skin friendly filter means that the main fabric used to make the garment does not endanger the health of your skin. Skin friendly certificates are Oeko-tex, Ivn, Gots, Joca and Sacl. View general certificate information for more details. This filter does not apply to the final product. Neither honest by, nor the production facilities Honest by works with, are certified organic at the moment.

RECYCLED
Recycled fabrics and yarns are made of post consumer waste which is purchased in bulk. The waste is sorted by color and respun into yarn. Depending on the end product, it will be used for knitting or weaving fabrics. The biggest advantage of sorting by color is that the yarn does not have to be dyed, hence the production of recycled wool yarn saves on energy and water use.

EUROPEAN
The European filter means the garment was 100% manufactured in Europe.

ANIMAL WELFARE FOR NON CERTIFIED FABRICS
The National Sheep Association which safeguards the interest of sheep and farmers within the UK has confirmed that sheep in the UK are not genetically modified; their genetic material has not been altered using genetic engineering techniques. For centuries, though, farmers have selected the best rams and ewes to bread in order to have a higher production quality. All farmers must comply to British and European legislation which has formulated laws regarding good husbandry, transport and animal welfare amongst other things. Dehorning and mulesing are not practiced in the UK. Tail docking happens everywhere in the UK. It is a recognized practice monitored by the government. Some farmers we have interviewed considered this a controversial practice, whilst others believe this practice benefits the welfare of the animals. In their opinion tail docking facilitates the treatment sheep undergo when infected with flystrike. Some sheep breeds, such as Shetland, have such short tails that tail docking is unnecessary. Hebrideans on the other hand are Northern Short Tail sheep, their tail is still quite long but native breeds are more resistant to fly strike if they stay in their natural environment; thus they often also do not get tail docked. Ear notching was an old tradition to recognize one sheep from one farm to another and is no longer practiced in the UK. Nowadays legal requirements force ear tags in both ears of a sheep.

Please contact Honest by in case you would have questions or remarks about our products. contact@honestby.com
 

GENERAL INFORMATION ABOUT CERTIFICATES:

GOTS
The Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) is the worldwide leading textile processing standard for organic fibers, including ecological and social criteria. The aim of the standard is to define world-wide recognized requirements that ensure organic status of textiles, from harvesting of the raw materials, through environmentally and socially responsible manufacturing up to labeling in order to provide a credible assurance to the end consumer. The EU organic regulation is the legal basis for the control of organic farming and food processing in Europe. The Global Organic Textile Standard has the EU organic regulation as its baseline: it starts where the European Legislation ends. This legislation contains (amongst other standards): standards for crop production, standards for livestock husbandry: e.g.. duration of transport of livestock shall be minimized; any suffering, including mutilation, shall be kept to a minimum during the entire life of the animal.

Organic is a ‘whole system’ approach to farming and food production. It recognizes the close interrelationships between all parts of the production system from the soil to the consumer. Agricultural principles are: To produce food of high quality in sufficient quantity. To work within natural systems and cycles throughout all levels from the soil to plants and animals. To maintain the long term fertility and biological activity of soils. To treat livestock ethically, meeting their physiological and behavioral needs. To respect regional, environmental, climatic and geographic differences and (appropriate) practices that have evolved in response to them.

Organic farming: Organic farming means livestock has to be managed with special care for their welfare and health, the animals’ behavioral needs should be satisfied. It goes beyond merely avoiding cruelty. One should: aim to prevent disease and injury, increase the ability of stock to resist infection, parasitic attack and metabolic disorders, and increase their ability to overcome injury by rapid healing. Animals should enjoy the ‘five freedoms’ - freedom from: malnutrition, physical discomfort and extremes of temperature, injury and disease, fear and distress, unnecessary restrictions of behavior.

Environmental criteria: At all stages through the processing organic fibre products must be separated from conventional fiber products and must to be clearly identified. All chemical inputs (e.g. dyes, auxiliaries and process chemicals) must be evaluated and meeting basic requirements on toxicity and biodegradability/eliminability. Prohibition of critical inputs such as toxic heavy metals, formaldehyde, aromatic solvents, functional nano particles, genetically modified organisms (GMO) and their enzymes. The use of synthetic sizing agents is restricted; knitting and weaving oils must not contain heavy metals. Bleaches must be based on oxygen (no chlorine bleaching). Azo dyes that release carcinogenic amine compounds are prohibited. Discharge printing methods using aromatic solvents and plastisol printing methods using phthalates and PVC are prohibited. Restrictions for accessories (e.g. no PVC, nickel or chrome permitted, any polyester must be post-consumer recycled from 2014 onwards). All operators must have an environmental policy including target goals and procedures to minimize waste and discharges. Wet processing units must keep full records of the use of chemicals, energy, water consumption and waste water treatment, including the disposal of sludge. The waste water from all wet processing units must be treated in a functional waste water treatment plant. Packaging material must not contain PVC.

For more information on this standard please visit the website: www.global-standard.org

NOTE: The standard does not apply to the final product. Neither honest by, nor the production facilities Honest by works with are certified at the moment.

IVN
The Internationale Verband der Naturtextilwirtschaft is a founder member of Global Standard GmbH, the managing body of the Gobal Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Since 2002 they have worked with SACL (UK), OTA (USA) and JOCA (Japan) to develop the unified global organic textile standards, which were launched in 2006.
IVN offers besides GOTS as its basic standard one further standard for certification that complies with GOTS but contains some additional requirements.(regarding composition, dyes and auxiliary agents, mercerization, etc…). This is the Naturtextil Certified Best label.

For more information on the standard please visit the website: www.naturtextil.com

NOTE: The standard does not apply to the final product. Neither honest by, nor the production facilities Honest by works with are certified at the moment.

JOCA
The Association is a founder member of Global Standard GmbH, the managing body of the Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Japan Organic Cotton Since 2002 they have worked with SACL (UK), OTA (USA) and IVN (DE) to develop the unified global organic textile standards, which were launched in 2006.
JOCA consist of several Japanese companies who produce or trade organic cotton products in Japan. The objective is to deepen understanding on organic cotton and promote consumption of the products in Japan. The Joca certificate complies to the GOTS certificate.

For more information on the standard please visit website: www.joca.gr.jp

NOTE: The standard does not apply to the final product. Neither honest by, nor the production facilities Honest by works with are certified at the moment.

SACL
The Soil Association is a founder member of Global Standard GmbH, the managing body of the Gobal Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). Since 2002 they have worked with IVN (Germany), OTA (USA) and JOCA (Japan) to develop the unified global organic textile standards, which were launched in 2006. It uses since June 2011 the GOTS standard as the basis for certification for new applicants.
The Soil Association organic standards have the EU organic regulation as their baseline. In many cases the standards are more robust than those set by EU regulations - in fact, no system of farming has higher levels of animal welfare standards than organic farms working to the Soil Association standards.

For more information on the standard please visit website: www.soilassociation.org

NOTE: The standard does not apply to the final product. Neither honest by, nor the production facilities Honest by works with are certified at the moment.

OEKOTEX
The Oeko-Tex Standard 100 was introduced at the beginning of the 1990s as a response to the needs of the general public for textiles which posed no risk to health. Oeko-Tex is an independent, third party certifier that offers two certifications for textiles: Oeko-Tex 100 (for products) and Oeko-Tex 1000 (for production sites/factories). Products satisfying the criteria for Oeko-Tex 100 which are produced in an Oeko-Tex 1000 certified facility get the Oeko-Tex 100Plus label. Oeko-Tex 100 labels aims to ensure that products pose no risk to health. They do not contain allergenic dye-stuffs and dye stuffs that form carcinogenic aryl-amines. They have been tested for pesticides and chlorinated phenols. They have been tested for the release of heavy metals under artificial perspiration conditions. Formaldehyde had been banned; other aldehyde limits are significantly lower than the required legal limits. They have a skin friendly pH, are free from chloro-organic carriers. They are free from biologically active finishes. The certification process includes thorough testing for a lengthy list of chemicals. Specifically banned are: AZO dyes, carcinogenic and allergy-inducing dyes, pesticides, chlorinated phenols, chloro-organic benzenes and toluenes, extractable heavy metals, phthalates in baby products, organotin compounds (TBT and DBT), emissions of volatile components.

For more information on the standard please visit website: www.oeko-tex.com

Product code: BPS009F2014C095W
Product description: HAND-WOVEN HARRIS TWEED BOMBER-COAT

FABRICS
Fabric / upper part: feather weight wool tweed
Price / Meter: 21,74 Euro/m
Amount used: 2,45 m
Total: 53,26 Euro

Fabric / facing: black plain weave
Price / Meter: 9,40 Euro/m
Amount used: 1,4 m
Total: 13,16 Euro
 
LINING
Lining: Oekotex certified cotton lining
Amount used: 1,2 Meter
Supplier does not wish to disclose the price for confidentiality reasons

KNIT TRIMMINGS
Knit trimmings: 100% recycled wool
Amount used: 0,03 kg
Price: 19,14 Euro / kg
Total: 0,57 Euro

BIAS TAPE
Bias tape: black 100% organic cotton
Price / Meter: 0,55 Euro/m
Amount used: 11,6 Meter
Total: 6,38 Euro

BUTTONS
Buttons: 100% corozo button dyed black
Price /piece: 0,1540 Euro 
Amount used: 13 pieces 
Cost: 2,00 Euro 

SEWING THREAD
Sewing thread: 100% organic cotton GOTS certified
Price / Cone:  9,50 Euro
Estimated cost: 0,5 Euro

INTERFACING
Fusible interfacing: black 100% Tencel
Amount used: 1,5 Meter
Supplier does not wish to disclose the price for confidentiality reasons

BRAND LABEL
Brand label big: 100% Polyester
Price / Piece: 0,67 Euro
Amount used: 1 piece
Total: 0,67 Euro

SIZE LABEL
Size label: 100% Polyester
Price /Piece: 0,04 Euro
Amount used: 1 piece
Total: 0,04 Euro

CARE LABEL + MADE IN LABEL
Care label + made in label: 100%cotton
Price: 0,74 Euro (for both labels)
Amount used: 1 of each
Total: 0,74 Euro

SECURITY SEAL
Security seal : 100% polystyrene 
Price / Piece: 0,2 Euro 
Amount used:1 piece
Total: 0,2 Euro

HANG TAG
Hang tag: 100% FSC recycled
Price / Piece: 0,29 Euro
Amount used: 1 piece
Total: 0,29 Euro

BUTTON BAG
Button bag: 100% FSC recycled paper
Price / Piece: 0,47 Euro
Amount used: 1 piece
Total: 0,47 Euro

COTTON THREAD
Cotton thread: 100% Cotton
Price / Piece: 0,016 Euro/m
Amount used: 0,3m
Total: 0,0048 Euro

SAFETY PIN
Safety pin: 100% nickel free metal
Price / Piece: 0,03 Euro
Amount used: 1 piece
Total: 0,03 Euro

TOTAL PRICE MATERIAL: 85,07

  

PATTERN COST
Pattern development: 7,27 Euro

MANUFACTURING COST
Garment manufacturing: 104,86 Euro
Knitting production: 2,60 Euro

DEVELOPMENT COST: This covers the cost of the development of the samples, such as pattern making and digitising. 
Development: 7,72 Euro

TRANSPORTATION COST
Transportation: 8 Euro

BRANDING COST
Branding: 10 Euro

TOTAL COST: 225,52 EURO

WHOLESALE MARK UP: X 2,0
= 451,04 EURO
The wholesale mark up covers a part of the Bruno Pieters studio costs such as staff, research, design, utility costs, transportation and office supplies.

RETAIL MARK UP: X 2,0
The retail mark up covers a part of the Honest by e-shop costs such as purchasing of new collections, webshop operational costs, rent, insurance, communications, intellectual property rights, maintenance costs, legal and accounting costs and marketing. 

HONEST BY RETAIL PRICE (excl. VAT): 902,08 EURO
This price is applicable to non-EU customers. Import duty taxes apply.

HONEST BY RETAIL PRICE (incl. VAT): 1091,52 EURO
This price is applicable to EU customers only. VAT is included in this price.

CHARITY
20% of the annual profit will be donated to various charities chosen by our collaborating designers.

NOTE: All prices are calculated per 1 item.